Preparing for the Dawn Wall


As news sources around the world tried to grapple with what the hell these climbers were doing; as the core climbing world tried to wrap its own head around what to call the style with which they dispatched the gnar; and as everyone waited and wondered whether Kevin would ever redpoint pitch 15—one of the most important elements of this story was lost amid the media frenzy. That was the fact that Tommy Caldwell basically fucking bone-crushed this monster of a route!

That's a fantastic point.

Without any pre-inspection on this push, Tommy racked up and sent pitches 20 and 21—both 5.13d, both complex and tricky, and both a whopping 180 feet long. I don’t believe that he had actually led either of these pitches before, having only ever worked them on Mini-Traxion. Pretty boss, if you ask me. Preparation is the most major part of every important endeavor. Only when a fisherman puts in the hours needed to repair his net and keep his boat in shape does the act of fishing become a mere formality.

I literally can't imagine how difficult climbing a 180 foot 13.d would a row. One for the history books.