Train Like a Climbing Pro

At 30 years old I’d plateaued at average, so I began wondering: What if I got serious about climbing? Like really serious. Not just scanning the gym for the newest 5.10 to try, but truly giving it everything I had. What if I trained like a pro? I decided to seek the help of the same people who work with Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio, dedicate myself to their program, and see how far I could get. The goal: redpoint a 5.11 outside in two months.

Kind of a neat way to go about getting past that plateau that we all inevitably hit.

“What do you think footwork is?”

“Using your legs to move your body up the wall?”

“Incorrect. Your knees move your body up and down. Your feet and your toes manage your hips.”

He elaborated: You can use your toes to pull your hips into the wall. You can pivot your feet to swing your hips into a different position. Our hips are roughly our center of gravity. Our center of gravity controls our balance. Balance is everything. Our feet control everything. And I’d already demonstrated poor footwork. Sjong noticed that I’d been dropping my feet onto holds, not placing them deliberately. And I’d been standing on the meat of my feet, not my toes. Our toes, like our fingers, can get stronger, but only if we use them. And by not using them I was obstructing my ability to pivot my hips.

Engaging article...I like all the different approaches he took to getting himself better. Some may seem like common sense to those with a more atheletic/sport driven background...but to the average person there's some good stuff in here.

I liked this line about nutrition:

And yes, not ordering food by its cheddar-to-beef ratio. It felt like an important moment.

Made me laugh. Outcome was better than what he could have originally hoped for.

Train Like a Pro

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