Great trip report from the Wide Boyz looking for a "next level" climb that meets their 'Holy Grail' criteria:
We didn’t want a ‘King Line’ nor a ‘Emperor Line’, what we were after was ‘The God Line’.
We came up with 5 characteristics that would be the make up of ‘The God Line’
- Big - this roof crack had to be big, much bigger than what is currently out there
- Architecture - it had to look the business. Grand, impressive and bold shapes.
- Grade - really hard. Difficulties had to blow other cracks we’d done or tried out the water
- Size - we were more flexible in this department with an allowance of a mixture of sizes. All crack techniques would be needed to get you up this thing, no one trick ponies.
- Cool - this roof crack had to be cool. No dirty 40ft caves with low exposure…
Just reading this post got me psyched to go climb. It's rare you find something like this nowadays as most climbing articles that gain attention are about some young strong climber completing another 5.14 whatever or someone's opinion about the state of the climbing industry.
But this post is about exploration and climbing psych! I love it.
These two are like a fish in water when climbing offwidths and at first they didn't even think their Crucifix Project was doable.
Neither of us are religious, but somehow this project took on some of the key elements of faith. It’s not because we find religion particularly helpful in climbing, but more that some of the mechanisms of faith and religion are incredibly useful - there’s a reason why some of them have been around for thousands of years. The critical moment came early on trying the moves, when we knew some of it was doable, but other parts seems laughable in their plausibility. Seriously, is it really realistic to campus multiple mono-locks in the roof? Cobra Crack was hard enough doing a single one on a 45 degree bulge! How is it then realistic to do all these and finally enter a crux that’s harder than anything either of us have done on a boulder problem on the ground? Ever? Suddenly “possible” very quickly became “impossible.”
Needless to say this heavy hitting realisation was like a punch in the face of motivation. What the hell were we doing? No one is ever going to do these moves, and even less us. We’re just too specialised in doing long endurance things… even pulling on is at 100%… and that’s when the idea struck. The hangs! The Holy Hangs! Then and there, we decided that “moves” were a million miles off, so we’d motivate ourselves with trying to complete the 5 Holy Hangs. It seems silly, but it was something achievable. It was progress tied in with motivational force. We hung on to it with every ounce of commitment.
These two posts are fantastic and are sure to get your climbing stoke to a full roar. Links below.
Part 2 - Wide Boyz Blog: The Crucifix Project